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Error code index

Every code,
in plain English.

It is 10pm, the tub is flashing something you have never seen, and the manual is in a drawer somewhere. Find the code, get a straight answer, and know whether it needs a technician.

FLO / FL1 / FLC
Flow problem

The board is not seeing enough water moving past the flow or pressure switch. Filter, water level, valves and air lock are the usual suspects.

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FL2
Flow switch stuck closed

The switch is reading flow when there should be none. Usually a failed switch rather than a plumbing issue.

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OH / OHH
Overheat

Water temperature at the heater went past the safe ceiling. Take the cover off and let it cool before anything else.

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HL / HFL
High limit tripped

The high limit sensor cut the heater. Very often a restricted flow problem in disguise.

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DR / DRY / DY
Dry heater

The board thinks the heater has no water in it. Check level and filter, then reset the breaker once.

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ICE / ICU
Freeze protection

The tub has detected a low water temperature and is running pumps to protect the plumbing. Normal in a cold snap.

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SN1 / SNA
Sensor fault

A temperature sensor is open or shorted. The heater is disabled until it is replaced.

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SN3 / SNB
High limit sensor fault

The high limit sensor itself has failed. Heater disabled as a safety measure.

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PRR / PROG
Priming mode

Normal after a refill. The tub is trying to clear air from the plumbing. If it does not clear, you have an air lock.

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COOL / COL
Cool water

Water has drifted well below the set point. Often the first sign of a heating fault, not a fault itself.

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OFL
Overflow or spillover

Water level above what the board expects. Common on tubs with a spillover feature after a heavy refill.

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GFCI trip
Ground fault

Current is leaking to ground. Reset once. If it goes again, stop and call. Do not keep resetting a GFCI.

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Codes and their wording vary between manufacturers, and the same three letters can mean two different things on two different tubs. Treat this as a starting point. If your code is not here, or it comes back after a reset, call it in and we will read it with you.

Three rules that cover most of these

  • Check the filter first. A restricted filter is the most common single cause of the most common codes. Pull it out entirely and run the tub for a minute — if the code clears, that was it.
  • Reset once, never repeatedly. This matters most on a GFCI trip and on DR . Every reset re-energises something the board has deliberately shut down.
  • A code names a symptom, not a cause. The same three letters can have four different causes at four different prices, which is why a diagnosis with a meter beats replacing the most expensive candidate first.

Where we stop

Electrical work on a spa circuit is licensed work in Michigan and Dr. Spa does not do it. We diagnose everything on the spa side of the disconnect — heater, pumps, sensors, pack and bonding at the tub — and when the fault is in the house wiring or the breaker we tell you exactly what to have a licensed electrician look at. Anything hot, scorched, melted or smelling of burning gets the breaker turned off first and a call second.

If the code is not here

Call it in. Dr. Spa has serviced all makes and models since 2001, roughly two dozen brands including packs whose manufacturers no longer exist, and a good share of the time we can tell you over the phone what a code means on your specific tub and whether it needs a technician at all. The symptom checker will also walk you through it if you would rather start with what the tub is doing than with what it is displaying.

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